It makes sense for housing assistance to be temporary. First, though, we need rent control and an appropriate minimum wage so that people don’t have to rely on government assistance indefinitely.

I can kind of get the logic behind this if you were an overseas call center. If you’re already based in the US, why lie? I can’t imagine why a call center would think being located in CA instead of OR would make the slightest difference.

Personally, my problem was always that math concepts were never presented in a way that actually made sense in the “real world.”

I was taught that complex numbers were real numbers with imaginary parts that had something to do with the square root of -1. Yeah, I get it, but… why?

Fast forward a few decades and I’m writing code that processes a digitized waveform. Now it makes sense. Math isn’t hard when you have a frame of reference. Learning math concepts solely for the sake of learning them is very hard.

The fact that something this extreme is actually required to enact political change is absolutely ridiculous, but much respect to him for what he’s doing.

On a practical note, I was thinking the same thing as you. I don’t think I could stand for 17 hours straight. I absolutely could not go 17 hours without a bathroom break.

Out of all the things this administration has done, this one almost seems somewhat logical.

I can understand not having a RealID or passport, since both are mainly for travel. Not everyone has a need or desire to travel.

Section D says a government-issued ID and proof of citizenship is okay. Doesn’t everyone at least have a state ID (probably a drivers license) and a birth certificate?

This is also true of Jellyfin, though. I have apps on my Windows PC, my Android phone, multiple Nvidia Shield boxes on my TVs, plus the web interface if I need it.

I switched over from Plex several years ago, and while it takes a bit more time to configure, compatibility for clients seems just as good for Jellyfin as it is for Plex.

Most importantly, Jellyfin is strictly client/server, no “cloud” bullshit and no remote account is required; I don’t want Plex phoning home with a list of the media on my file server.

I believe you’re correct. I didn’t realize that I had my containers set to privileged. That would explain why I’ve never had issues with mounting shares.

I’m sorry, I think I gave you bad information. I have my containers set to unprivileged=no. I forgot about the “double negative” in how that flag was described.

So apparently my containers are privileged, so I don’t think I’ve ever tried to do what you are doing.

I’m leaving this here for continuity, but don’t follow what I said here. I have my containers set as privileged. I was wrong.

I have a server that runs Proxmox and a server that runs TrueNAS, so a very similar setup to yours. As long as your LXC is tied to a network adapter that has access to your file server (it almost certainly is unless you’re using multiple NICs and/or VLANs), you should be able to mount shares inside your LXC just like you do on any other Linux machine.

Can you ping your fileserver from inside the container? If so, then the issue is with the configuration in the container itself. Privileged or unprivileged shouldn’t matter here. How are you trying to mount the CIFS share?

Edit: I see that you’re mounting the share in Proxmox and mapping it to your container. You don’t need to do this. Just mount it in the container itself.

I’m also in agreement with you there. I’d rather use Windows 11 than macOS, but that’s kinda like saying I’d rather have a lobotomy with a short icepick instead of a long one.

macOS

My pellet stove is a bit different. It has a built-in thermostat, and a combination rotary switch/potentiometer to control the temperature. This switch has a single wire that tells the controller to shut off the stove (wire is shorted) or control the on/off set points based on the resistance. I just leave it at “fully-on” and use a normally-closed relay to control it. When HA wants to turn on the stove, it just switches the relay to open, which tells the stove to start up and continue running until the relay is closed. The built-in thermostat just switches the stove on/off, so I’m essentially just disabling that and offloading it to HomeAssistant.

I also have a fairly complex automation for my stove. I’m using it to heat a large workshop, but I generally only use my shop on days I’m not going to work. On my off days, HA checks my location (from my phone), and if I’m home, it’ll heat up my shop in the early morning so it’s already comfortable when I wake up. It’s tied into my occupancy sensors, so if the ambient temperature is below a set point and somebody is in the shop, it’ll maintain the temperature even if my schedule doesn’t mandate it. It also takes into account outdoor temperature, and it overrides everything and heats up my shop anyway if it’s at risk of freezing (frozen wood glue doesn’t work very well). I also monitor run time, and it’ll send me a notification when it needs to be cleaned. I use 18 hours, though; with my stove, I think if I let it go to 150 like yours, it’d be a fire hazard.

I hadn’t thought of monitoring pellet level, but I really like your idea. I think a beam sensor at the bottom of the hopper might do the trick. It wouldn’t give a level, but it work to let you know when it’s empty. I’m also wondering of you could install an IR emitter and photodiode on the hopper door facing downward and calculate a fill level based on how much light is reflected back. Maybe a series of contact switches from top to bottom. It’d definitely be a fun project.

I don’t think it’s so much that Zigbee is a gamble, but that buying off-brand cheap Chinese devices is a gamble.

Like another commenter said, you get what you pay for. I have some Phillips bulbs that have seriously been working well for a decade, long before I even knew about HomeAssistsnt or even knew what Zigbee was, other than that’s what the Hue bridge used.

Part of the problem is that more obscure Zigbee devices can sometimes only be found from companies with names that look like somebody just mashed their hand on the keyboard. For something like a relay or a mmWave sensor, you’re likely going to be trying to pick the best of a few questionable options unless you build it yourself. Alternatively, sometimes it just doesn’t really matter. I have a cheap temperature sensor in a storage space. I don’t care if it occasionally drops off the network; it’s just there to satisfy my curiosity.

I wish it was that simple. I don’t remember channel numbers offhand, but I mapped out my WiFi and Zigbee networks to be non-ovrlapping. I don’t have any neighbors close enough to even register an SSID, either.

The weird thing is that location doesn’t seem to matter. I have a few Aquara devices spread out across several hundred feet. The one that’s close enough to connect directly to my controller is actually the least reliable.

I use one for the same thing! I have a pellet stove, and I set the knob to “on,” then installed a relay in line with the knob. HA monitors temperature with another sensor and switches the pellet stove as needed.

I’ve got another two connected to solenoid valves, and another in a custom lighting system. They’ve been rock solid for a year or two.

The wide input power range is really convenient, too. Depending on what you’re controlling, you can probably either just power it off the same supply, or grab any random adapter and hack off the barrel plug.

That’s interesting. I first set up Aquara door sensors on all my doors. Every single one has dropped off the network and required re-pairing multiple times. I’ve started just replacing them with Thirdreality door sensors when they drop rather than re-pairing.

I wonder if my controller or my Zigbee integration has something to do with it?

Does Thirdreality make a UK plug? I can’t find one on Amazon but that might be because I’m US-based. Out of all the plugs I’ve tried, theirs have been the best in terms of reliability.

I use a mmWave presence sensor and PIR motion sensor in each room. I’ve found that mmWave sensors tend to give false positives and motion sensors don’t work too well when a person is at rest (say sitting and watching TV). Lights come on when the motion sensor triggers, then they shut off when the presence sensor has been idle for a set time, usually 5 minutes. This works perfectly for me.

I have a Rachio irrigation controller. I’d recommend OpenSprinkler to avoid being tied to a “cloud” service, but I didn’t know that when I purchased my Rachio.

One of my irrigation zones feeds into my greenhouse. It splits off to two solenoid valves. When it’s time to water my plants, HA triggers that zone through the Rachio integration and opens the appropriate solenoid valve that connects to my emitters. If my humidifier gets low, then it does the same thing but opens the other valve.

That’s really interesting with your TV. I would actually expect power consumption to increase with 1080p since it’s having to upsample the input to match your native resolution. Unless you’re playing 4k content on a 1080p panel, in which case it makes more sense.