Depending where you live, it can be really hard to find ethonal free gas. As an added bonus, carburators hate having ethonal sit in them. They’ll develop a varnish. Carbs also don’t like sitting partially dry and getting all the fuel out of them is a massive pain. Yay lawn equipment.
Both. Ethonal is still corrosive and the majority of fuel systems these days are compatible with E15. That said, check your owners manual.
Very cool. Was this a test piece or do you intend to do CNC carving like this in the future? What finish do you think you’ll use? Any surface prep ahead of time like sanding? Details on the CNC?
So many questions!
A+ reply in every way, bravo!
Another vote for pine. That said, I think that pine gets a bit of a bad rap. Other than its softness, it’s a fine wood to use. I have pallet and firewood laminated desk that has it’s fair share of pine in it and the pine strips are not any worse for wear than anything else.
Thanks! I’m guessing oil based applied over many many years and the low spots are due to a mixture of mechanical damage (it is a park table after all) and flaking?
We’re in SE MI, so I wouldn’t call it particularly moist but it’s not super dry either. The weather out here is very similar to what I experienced in New England
Edit: based on surface wear and looking at these things for years now, it’s been a few years since the last time they were refinished and there’s no flaking.
If it helps there are decent drips on the bottom side that remind me of poly drips when I was getting started with poly. The total thickness in the high spots is easily 1/16, if not 1/8.
Thanks for the photo! I now realize that the top sits on the pieces that run perpendicular to them and it all comes out as one piece. For some reason I was thinking that they fit onto a lip or something on the box side.
Clearly, I’ve never seen this style cutting board before lol.
TIL these are a thing. Nice work! Have a picture of the box it sits in without the insert in?
If your sawdust is free of things like glue and finishes, put some in your compost pile if you have one! You too can grow fine mushrooms.
A track saw is rigidly mounted to the track. As long as you clamp the track square, you should be good to go.
Have any size/weight/portability restrictions?
It looks like the Rigid R4560 is the current incarnation of the table saw I have.
It’s hard to go wrong with craigslist if you live in a decently dense area. Worst case, you can always sell it for around what you paid for it.
If you’re going to be cutting large pieces of wood, having a heavy saw will give you more stability. You’re also going to need something to help with indeed and out feed if you’re going to try to cut something like a 2x4.
As an alternative, or potentially a companion, consider a track saw and sawhorses or even a circular saw with something like this. I break down large pieces of wood this way now and then being them to my table saw.
Nice job! I always think pine gets a bad wrap.
Did you build the top with breadboard ends that allow for the top to move with the seasons?
How does it hold up to sweating glasses and spills? A less permanent finish sounds appealing due to ease of touch-up, but we have young kids… Granted, they’re the cause of the need to touch up things with poly.
Closely related: a little wood paste wax on the sole will make planing easier by reducing friction between the sole and the wood. I’ve also started doing this on the surface of my table saw. It’s pretty obvious when you need to apply more and the effect was very noticeable.
It’s true that I can get caught up in the nuance sometimes. That said, you and I both understand the details behind what you’re talking about but odds are a number of people lurking in the comments don’t. All I was really trying to do was nudge those people away from “substituting aluminum in place of steel with no other changes will result in a better part”.
Aluminum in and of itself is not stiffer than steel. It’s about 1/3 as stiff as steel. That said, it is quite a bit lighter and since stiffness is proportional to cross sectional area aluminum parts can be stiffer than steel parts at the same weight because they can use more material. Strength is a whole other can of worms.
If you’ve never sharpened any before the easiest setup is probably sandpaper on a granite tile (they’re generally very flat) and a guide clamped to your chisel or plane blade. There are many photos of people using guides on sharpening stones on the Internet, but I don’t know how great of an idea it is. Ideally you want to sharpen across the whole length of the stone to promote even stone wear and that’s hard to do with a guide.
If you want to sharpen on a stone with ya guide, a good trick is to color in the blade with a sharpie. This will let you see where you’re removing material more easily, which can help you adjust your angle.
My electric chainsaws and weed whacker always start. Eventually our lawn tractor will kick the bucket and I’ll either convert it to electric or buy one.