Pure Tung oil for the win!!! Slop it on with whatever you feel like, wipe it off 45 minutes later, let it dry for a day and repeat. If it forms a white crust, you didnt wipe it off quite enough, this can be removed with a bit of 0000 steel wool. You can drink it out of the bottle if you’d like.
Indiana. It makes me feel sad, too.
Milk paint company sells some good pure tung oil. I like tung oil for its non-yellowing and superior protective qualities, and I’ve come to like the smell…
Sorry, shoulda speced pure tung oil. Poly never blends in on repairs, pure tung oil takes the surface back to indistinguishable from new.
Looking good. If you use Tung oil instead of poly, you could wet the table to swell the nail holes shut every couple of years, and then throw a new coat of tung oil on and be looking brand new again.
Get a rabbet plane, and keep it sharp.
No problemo. Sounds like a good job for a nice sharp handplane.
Me! I learned from a guy who’d been building doors for 40 years, and continue the tradition of mortise and tenon with cope and stick construction professionally.
Flood that section with thin cyanoacrylate glue, then use a caul( flat board with plastic on the face to keep it from gluing itslf to the table) to press it down. If you dont have clamps that deep, use 2x2s to span over the caul and clamp both ends of each stick. Let it dry overnight. Don’t use accelerator on the glue. In the future, glue the veneer down before sanding.
Find someone with a Tormek sharpening system with the woodturners kit, and beg to use their Swedish shapening marvel.
Pure tung oil. I’ve also had nice results with 1/3 tung oil 1/3 polyurethane, and 1/3 mineral spirits. Makes a nice wipe on finish that’s forgiving. Pure tung oil is by far my favorite, in good part because ot can be touched up in one spot, or recoated with no evidence of repair or need for stripping. Great protection, and it brings out a depth of the natural beauty ofnthe grain thays just unmatched by any other finish.
If the veneer is what’s bubbling, you need to get it glued back down before a light sanding. A thin cyanoacrylate (super-glue) can work well for this, especially if you make tiny slices with a utility knife in each bubble before applying the glue. The thin stuff will wick into the bubbles, and then you can press em down with a caul (flat piece of wood) covered with plastic to keep it from being glued to the veneer, and some clamps for pressure. Let it dry overnight, don’t use accelerator. Lightly sand and refinish.
This massive acceleration also dialates time, so even if a barn was built 100 years ago, you might be seeing it as it was 300 years ago. This is why barns often also look so old.
Preach on, Brother!!! Mmmmmmhhhhmmm. I know that’s right.
Limitations of hardware resources show up as “Natural Limits”, like the speed of light, in the simulation. The amount of RAM consumed translates to the Hubble Bubble, or the greatest distance light could have traveled since the beginning of our universe, and moreso to the amount of matter and energy contained within it, which is a constant. Energy and matter cannot be created or destroyed, only changed forms allowed, so a set amount from the beginning.