3 are for the family, 3 are for work stuff, 3 are for me as toys.

(Plus a Mac mini and a p330 as spare desktops for me, thus the -ish)

This is precisely what I do with my nas.

I have 9…ish tiny/mini/micros for compute, two NAS (locally).

Solid approach

And specifically NYC, not even the state.

I didnt say ‘it’ll never work!!’, I said NYC <> the US. You can’t compare the two and say “See, it works” when he isn’t even elected yet, and its in a city that is absolutely further left than democrats on the national scale.

I would love to see it work. One mayoral hopeful in a friendly city is not a reasonable comparison though.

Edit: feel free to show me a single example somewhere red. I’d love it.

When that happens, yeah, that’d be a good example.

NYC does not extrapolate out to the US, or things would look very different these days.

Amcrest are great, but not all of them. Learned that with the stupid ASH-21 I bought.

So check the frigate docs for cameras, there is a great list there.

You could just use a local NFO for artist/album with jellyfin, thats what I do for everything from stuff friends have made to home movies and fanedits.

join our discord server anonymously or Facebook group to stay connected

Oof.

So… May as well assault them if they are going to lie anyway, and you dont have the kind of press following a mayoral candidate or state senator would?

Thats the message they are sending to me, not sure about anyone else’s take.

Yeah they are using a pi 4 for this

It isn’t hitting it locally is the issue. Not an uncommon problem with plex unfortunately, its going out to come back in, so the server and client see it as remote.

Without playback you wouldn’t even be able to see that in the dashboard, which just makes the direction Plex is going so much more problematic.

Like I said, better off using JF.

Remote, yes, they announced you need Plex pass one side or the other for it to work.

Local, no, that shouldn’t happen. Your device isn’t reaching your Plex server locally.

To work around the remote issue, you can VPN to your local network.

But you’re better off in the long haul with Jellyfin as you’re doing now.

Maybe it’ll detect it as mass storage media and give it access to the built in audio system.

It won’t. Both will be acting as host, so thats not going to work out.

What car do you have?

Else, I’ll just use a bluetooth speaker I have at home. I don’t need good audio for “turn left/turn right”, just to hear it.

Didn’t you want to use it for your music as well with navidrome?

I’ve had Waze become useless three times in the span of two years because they pushed updates that made the app unstable enough to not be reliable.

CoMaps may be up your alley, uses OSM.

I’ll try the recovery mode for my phone and see if that helps!

Hope that works for you regardless, it was an absolute pain when my wife’s phone update (Samsung) broke android auto and Bluetooth connections. Especially since I just bought the car a few weeks before.

How do you plan to get audio in? Bluetooth? Wired audio input?

In your first post you were calling it a head unit, which would replace everything. Given the picture, you have a more fully integrated android auto compatible system rather than a traditional head unit, so I understand why the other commenter pointed to that - its similar to what I would have suggested, which would be to get a din cover appropriately sized, then cut out for a screen.

So the question becomes how do you want to hear and/or see? That would decide placement requirements. For example, I have a nice spot in the passenger seat I could easily hide it behind a panel under the dash, but the audio input I’d have to bring over to the armrest. So I’d run a cable under the carpet to the aux input, bring it up the side of the armrest and plug it in.

FWIW, your phone may work nicely by rebooting into recovery and wiping the cache partition. That resolved things for my wife and her car, no issues or trouble since.

Sorry short hand for tiny/mini/micro. Lenovo tiny, dell micro, and HP mini, some generic used, some I grab from work after their desktop life is done.

Great little workhorses

My NAS just stores, its my stack of tmm’s that do all the heavy lifting.

Though I use a front end for everything, like jellyfin, audiobookshelf, kavita, etc.

“The party” is not trying to gain access to the building.

These two reps are.

My solution was HDMI in as others suggested. Currently a picture slideshow screensaver for Kodi, previously a rooted firestick.

You realize I’m not the same person, right? So maybe change the attitude a bit.

120Hz wasn’t in your original question. For that you’d need to be in direct view LED territory, which is going to be in the $150k+ range, like an FE012I3 (at least with Sharp/NEC).

Sony has a line of Bravia post production OLEDs, the FWD-##A95Ls ( the number is the sizing) which is going to be a phenomenal production quality display. $7k-$10k.

LG and Samsung are all WebOS and Tizen respectively, but the versions are different than the consumer version. So its “smart”, but not in the same way as consumer editions - sampling content and other such things would be a legal nightmare for them. So if you want “smart” but not “consumer smart” you can go that route, but expect about twice the price.

Edit: I suppose I can toss Planar into the mix here, different business purpose and youre not buying them at best buy. They are more of a 24x7 operation design. I don’t think 120hz is on the sale list yet though, those will be part of the UltraRes series.

That wasn’t the question, but sure.